On the afternoon of July 5, 1969, Tom Joseph Mboya stepped out of Chhani’s Pharmacy on Government Road, Nairobi. He had just bought a bottle of lotion. As he walked to his car, a man approached, pulled a revolver, and fired. Mboya collapsed on the pavement, bleeding out at just 39 years old. By the … Read more
On October 8, 2004, in Oslo, a woman from the ridges of Nyeri walked onto a stage and made history. The Nobel Committee awarded Wangari Maathai the Peace Prize, the first African woman to win it, for “her contribution to sustainable development, democracy and peace.” The world saw an environmentalist. Kenyans knew her as something … Read more
The Man in the Leopard Skin On October 21, 1956, colonial police dragged a bleeding man out of the Aberdare forest. His hair was matted into dreadlocks, his body wrapped in a leopard skin, and his leg shattered by a bullet. The British press paraded him as a terrorist finally captured; Africans whispered his name … Read more
If cities had mirrors, Nakuru’s would be cracked straight down the middle. On one side, pink flamingos flocking in their tens of thousands across the alkaline waters of Lake Nakuru, a paradise scene so delicate it adorns postcards. On the other side, scorched earth, barbed wire, and the ghosts of ethnic clashes that turned fertile … Read more
Kisumu’s story begins in the waters of Lake Victoria, but it is not a neat beginning. Like most Kenyan cities, Kisumu is both ancient and recent — a place of barter long before it became a town, and a stage of betrayal long after it became a city. Today, it is remembered as the third … Read more
Nyeri is a place where Kenya’s history folds in on itself. It is both the pride of the White Highlands and the birthplace of the Mau Mau rebellion. It gave the country presidents, bishops, and generals, but also sent thousands of its sons and daughters into detention camps and forests. If Nairobi was the swamp … Read more
If cities had nine lives, Mombasa would be on its fifteenth. It has been razed, looted, and conquered so many times that by all logic it should have drowned in the Indian Ocean centuries ago. Yet it endures — stubbornly, defiantly, perched on its coral island like a cat that refuses to die. Every empire … Read more
Independence was supposed to end the shootings. The Union Jack had come down in 1963, and Kenyans were told they were free. But on October 25, 1969, in the lakeside city of Kisumu, it was Kenyan police and the presidential guard who opened fire on unarmed citizens. Dozens, perhaps hundreds, of men, women, and children … Read more
Kenya’s independence is usually remembered in color. The Union Jack came down in December 1963, flags waved in Uhuru Park, Jomo Kenyatta declared freedom at last. What rarely makes it into the story is that even as Nairobi was celebrating, another Kenya was already at war. In the dry, endless lands of the Northern Frontier … Read more
Every empire begins by pretending it brings order. The British said they were bringing “civilization” to Kenya; what they brought to Kisii in 1908 was the hut tax, whips, and the rifle. Today, when Kenyans talk about colonial resistance, the story usually jumps straight to the Mau Mau in the 1950s, or maybe the Giriama … Read more